Arktika • fortunate to call this ship our home (on keels?) in the ‘bergs last month. a remarkable ship made more remarkable by an intrepid captain and crew who have used her to explore the quickly changing glaciated coastlines and largely uncharted waters of east Greenland. In contrast to the more developed western coast of Greenland, the east coast is sparsely inhabited, with the majority of three thousand residents spread between a handful of fishing communities. With no roads and little development, the majority of information about this coastline comes from local folklores, outdated government charts, exploratory forays by extractive industries and the occasional curious sailing crew. Looking forward to see what this crew gets up to in coming years, working to educate and advocate for this truly wild landscape in the face of the melting icecap and the already heightening international push (as new waterways for navigation open around the icecap) for extraction.